On my first full day in Oregon, I met a woman who asked me how long I would be staying. I replied that I would only be there for the summer while I completed my internship. She then proceeded to warn me, with a sly smile on her face, that I should be careful or Oregon will steal my heart and I will not want to leave.
I went back home at the end of that summer, but the words spoken prophetically by the woman in the cafe rang true. I did not go to Oregon expecting it to steal my heart the way it did. It didn’t happen quickly, but rather slow, like winding up a narrow mountain path. This was not due to any lack in beauty or personality. Oregon, as far as I am concerned, is not lacking an ounce of either.
I went back home at the end of that summer, but the words spoken prophetically by the woman in the cafe rang true. I did not go to Oregon expecting it to steal my heart the way it did. It didn’t happen quickly, but rather slow, like winding up a narrow mountain path. This was not due to any lack in beauty or personality. Oregon, as far as I am concerned, is not lacking an ounce of either.
From the jagged cliff lines and dense rain forests of the West Coast to the soaring peaks of the Cascade Mountain Range, coastal Oregon is a place like no other. Meander along famous Highway 101 from North to South (or vice versa) and you will discover a vast diversity in landscape, coastal towns both quaint and bustling, and, perhaps best of all, delectable food and drink.
If, once it is safe to travel again, you are thinking about the perfect getaway with a mixture of outdoor exploration and city wanderings, you simply can’t go wrong with Oregon’s spectacular coast.
If, once it is safe to travel again, you are thinking about the perfect getaway with a mixture of outdoor exploration and city wanderings, you simply can’t go wrong with Oregon’s spectacular coast.
Portland
Let me start off by saying, I am not a big fan of cities. Every city I have visited has been fine for a day or two, but then I start to get stressed by the hustle and bustle. Portland is my one exception. It’s busy, certainly, but it lacks the hurried, anxiety-inducing heartbeat of, say, New York or Chicago. Based on my experience, people behind the wheel in Portland do not immediately become road raged barbarians and the folks, in general, seem to be in a better mood.
How could one not be in a good mood in such a beautiful city? From any high point on a clear day, you have spectacular views of the snow-capped Cascade mountain range, Mt. Hood, and even Mt. Saint Helens. For the best views in Portland, I recommend visiting the Washington Park rose gardens. This place is a dreamscape. You will feel like you slipped down the rabbit hole, straight into Wonderland.
How could one not be in a good mood in such a beautiful city? From any high point on a clear day, you have spectacular views of the snow-capped Cascade mountain range, Mt. Hood, and even Mt. Saint Helens. For the best views in Portland, I recommend visiting the Washington Park rose gardens. This place is a dreamscape. You will feel like you slipped down the rabbit hole, straight into Wonderland.
The views are not all that is spectacular about this city, however. Portland also offers a variety of good eats. Of course, there is the famous VooDoo Donuts, which you simply must drop by and purchase a dozen of the weirdest flavored pastries you may ever encounter. After consuming all that sugar, you will need something savory to balance it out.
Pok Pok Thai Food in the Alberta District is a Portland classic, as well as the Pearl Districts Tilt (Burgers and Pie). Before moving on, I would be remiss not to mention Por Que No? This tiny taco hut serves up the best tacos I have had in the Pacific Northwest. A little tip - you will want to get there early, otherwise you might be waiting in a line that is a couple of blocks long.
To round out your balanced diet of donuts and tacos, you should absolutely end your day with a scoop of handmade ice cream from Salt and Straw, another Portland institution. This treat will be best enjoyed paired with a walk through the Alberta Arts District and Alberta Park.
Mount Hood & The Columbia River Gorge
Before heading to the coast, you will want to drive a bit east to explore the Columbia River Gorge and Mount Hood. The gorge is most famous for Multnomah Falls, a striking 620-foot waterfall. You have probably seen pictures of crowds standing on the bridge in front of this behemoth, looking on in wonder. Multnomah is certainly worth the stop. I do recommend visiting in the early morning on a weekday, however. Otherwise, the crowds can be horrendous.
This stop should be the only place you really have to worry about hordes of people. The Columbia River Gorge is the largest national scenic area in America, so there is plenty of space to find a quiet spot to yourself. For a moderate hike, you cannot go wrong with the four and a half mile Angels Rest trail. It boasts spectacular views of craggy cliff lines and the mighty Columbia.
This stop should be the only place you really have to worry about hordes of people. The Columbia River Gorge is the largest national scenic area in America, so there is plenty of space to find a quiet spot to yourself. For a moderate hike, you cannot go wrong with the four and a half mile Angels Rest trail. It boasts spectacular views of craggy cliff lines and the mighty Columbia.
If you can bring yourself to leave this breathtaking, river carved gorge, your next stop will be Oregon’s highest peak, the potentially active volcano, Mount Hood. This never summer mountain is home to the only year-round ski lodge in North America. It also offers incredible hiking opportunities. You can meander through old-growth forests on the Old Salmon River trail or venture up into the alpine meadows via Zigzag Canyon.
Newport
Now it’s time to hit the coast. After leaving Mount Hood, you can drive back through Portland or head south into Salem (a smaller city with quite a lot of character) before going further west. You will find several small beach towns dotting the Oregon coast, each with their own individual quirks and charm. For the sake of time, though, I am just going to focus on the three I became well acquainted with.
Driving south from Portland on highway 101 will bring you into the town of Newport. This charming beachside burgh is home to lovely art galleries and local craft stores, delightful coffee shops and a bistro that serves up a mean grilled cheese and tomato soup for lunch - everything one would want in a place to rest after a long drive. The best part about Newport, though, is not the food or the salty sea breeze, it is the Sylvia Beach Hotel.
Driving south from Portland on highway 101 will bring you into the town of Newport. This charming beachside burgh is home to lovely art galleries and local craft stores, delightful coffee shops and a bistro that serves up a mean grilled cheese and tomato soup for lunch - everything one would want in a place to rest after a long drive. The best part about Newport, though, is not the food or the salty sea breeze, it is the Sylvia Beach Hotel.
What makes this hotel so special, you ask? It’s simple - the rooms. If you are a bookworm like myself, The Sylvia may just be your favorite part about Oregon. Each room is themed after a book, mostly classics such as Jane Eyre or Moby Dick, The Jungle Book or Peter Pan. My personal favorites, though, are the Harry Potter and Lord of the Rings themed rooms. The Potter room even comes equipped with wands to duel with before bed.
You are laughing at me now, I’m sure, but once you see it, the magic will take hold.
Yachats
South of Newport lies the tiny beachside town of Yachats (pronounced ya-hots). If you blink you will miss it, but trust me, you do not want to pass this place by. Get an Airbnb and hole up here for a few days. Enjoy walks along the most beautiful beaches in the continental U.S. Have your morning coffee at The Green Salmon and dine on delicious, fresh seafood for dinner at The Drift Inn (the crab cakes are a must!).
Five minutes south of Yachats, you will find yourself at Cape Perpetua Scenic Area, where you can wander through the old-growth forests and marvel at a 500-year-old Sitka Spruce tree or saunter along the beach and visit the tide pools (I recommend doing it all). If you stop by the visitors center, you can pick up a trail map and a tide schedule.
Five minutes south of Yachats, you will find yourself at Cape Perpetua Scenic Area, where you can wander through the old-growth forests and marvel at a 500-year-old Sitka Spruce tree or saunter along the beach and visit the tide pools (I recommend doing it all). If you stop by the visitors center, you can pick up a trail map and a tide schedule.
At high tide, you can visit the infamous Thor’s Well - a hole in the basalt where water will spill over from underneath while the tide is high. I call it infamous because it is infamously disappointing to people who visit Cape Perpetua just to see the phenomena, only to realize they must leave before the tide rolls in or simply find it not as spectacular as portrayed by images online.
Rocky Shores & Old Growth Forests
Thor’s Well is neat, but it’s no Old Faithful. Water does not erupt and shoot several feet into the air, which is often what visitors expect. Personally, I think Devil’s Churn or the Cape Perpetua Lookout are far more appealing places of interest. At high tide, especially during a thunderstorm, the waves crashing into the narrow inlet of Devil’s Churn are so loud they are hard to differentiate from thunder.
Once you have sufficiently explored the coast from sea level, I highly recommend taking the Cape Perpetua Lookout trail from the visitor’s center up to the overlook (you can also drive, if you prefer). The trail winds gradually up the side of the Cape for a little more than a mile through moss and lichen laden old growth.
When you reach the top of the Cape, you are 800 feet above sea level, the highest point along the Oregon Coast. The views are the best you will find and, perhaps with the expectation of being on the beach, there is no better place to watch the sunset.
Florence
After leaving Cape Perpetua, the landscape begins to change. Dramatic, rocky shorelines turn into large swaths of soft, sandy beaches, but not before reaching the lovely Heceta Head Lighthouse. You may want to stop and explore here before winding further south on Highway 101 into the town of Florence.
Florence is full of charm, especially in June during Rhody Fest (Rhody refers to the beautiful flowering shrub, rhododendron). People dress up in elaborate costumes and deck out their bikes, vehicles, or horses to prance in the parade. Local vendors set up downtown along the Siuslaw River to sell their arts and crafts and, as with any good festival, you can make yourself sick on funnel cake.
If you are not in Florence for Rhody Fest, there is still plenty to enjoy. Take a walk along the Siuslaw, which feeds into the Pacific Ocean. Check out the shops and galleries lining the downtown streets, and treat yourself to a meal at the hippest spot in town, Homegrown - where you can get kombucha on tap.
You can also explore the beaches. Though not as dramatic as the shores around Cape Perpetua and Yachats, the north and south jetty are lovely places to saunter along the beach and take in the salty breeze or try your hand at crabbing. They are also excellent places to surf. I frequently saw dolphins just past where the waves break.
Dunes or Forest
Once you are ready to leave Florence, it’s time to decide whether you want to head further south on the 101, towards Reedsport and the Oregon Dunes and, perhaps, on into Northern California. Or, head east into the dense, mystical woods of the Willamette National Forest and onto the high desert of Sisters and Bend.
Whatever direction you decide, I still highly recommend taking a few hours to drive to the Oregon Dunes Scenic Area and wander up and down the steep sandy hills. The Dunes are a spectacular sight, especially if you have never seen sand dunes before. You can reach them through the town of Reedsport, located not far from Florence.
The Shire
As cliche as it sounds, I cannot think of a better word to describe Oregon than magical. It truly is like something out of a fairytale, rather unlike anywhere else I have been. Perhaps this is why so many people lovingly refer to it as The Shire.
I could go on and on about sights to see in coastal and inland Oregon, but now I will have to leave the exploring to you. Whatever route you choose or trail you take, I don’t believe you will be disappointed. My biggest advice is to take your time. Don’t be in a hurry to get from one place to the next. Remember to stop and smell the rhododendrons.
I could go on and on about sights to see in coastal and inland Oregon, but now I will have to leave the exploring to you. Whatever route you choose or trail you take, I don’t believe you will be disappointed. My biggest advice is to take your time. Don’t be in a hurry to get from one place to the next. Remember to stop and smell the rhododendrons.