Perhaps you have explored Denver and wandered the undulating paths of Rocky Mountain National Park; maybe you have even summited Pikes Peak - one of the most popular fourteeners in the Colorado front range. Are you familiar, however, with the less populated and equally stunning Western Slope?
The Western Slope of Colorado consists of everything in the state that is west of the continental divide. This region is considerably more remote than the front range, or Eastern Slope, which includes the larger cities - Denver and Colorado Springs.
If you are looking to avoid big cities and find solitude in the outdoors while exploring Colorado, west of the divide is the place to be. Here you will find smaller crowds, greater seclusion, and charming mountain towns boasting great food, local breweries, and lively summer festivals.
The Western Slope of Colorado consists of everything in the state that is west of the continental divide. This region is considerably more remote than the front range, or Eastern Slope, which includes the larger cities - Denver and Colorado Springs.
If you are looking to avoid big cities and find solitude in the outdoors while exploring Colorado, west of the divide is the place to be. Here you will find smaller crowds, greater seclusion, and charming mountain towns boasting great food, local breweries, and lively summer festivals.
Durango, CO
I want to begin this Western Slope tour with Durango, a small city in the southwestern corner of Colorado. Durango provides all of the comforts and conveniences of a city without feeling overwhelmingly large or crowded.
Downtown is a lovely place to walk around. You can stroll along the streets and wander in and out of small shops and galleries, or take a relaxing walk along the river. If you are hungry, I recommend stopping by the Irish Embassy. This charming Irish pub has delectable fish and chips.
Once you have explored the town, perhaps you will want to take a ride through the Rockies on the Durango and Silverton steam train. Onboard you will be taken back in time as storytellers in period dress regale you with the history of this special stretch of railroad between Durango and the old mining camp, Silverton. The train also offers events such as Brew Train - where you can enjoy a ride through the rugged Rockies while tasting local brews and listening to live music.
Downtown is a lovely place to walk around. You can stroll along the streets and wander in and out of small shops and galleries, or take a relaxing walk along the river. If you are hungry, I recommend stopping by the Irish Embassy. This charming Irish pub has delectable fish and chips.
Once you have explored the town, perhaps you will want to take a ride through the Rockies on the Durango and Silverton steam train. Onboard you will be taken back in time as storytellers in period dress regale you with the history of this special stretch of railroad between Durango and the old mining camp, Silverton. The train also offers events such as Brew Train - where you can enjoy a ride through the rugged Rockies while tasting local brews and listening to live music.
Silverton
As previously mentioned, Silverton is a historic mining camp established in 1874. Today, though, the town is a quaint and enjoyable place to visit. Nestled at the base of the San Juan Mountains, the spectacular views from the town create an ambiance that makes you want to put down roots and stay for a while.
There are ample recreation opportunities surrounding Silverton. It is, of course, a skiing paradise in the winter. If you - much like myself - are not a fan of sliding (or tumbling) down a mountain in the snow, however, you may find the hiking and backpacking in summer and early fall much more enjoyable.
For hiking/backpacking, I do not think you will be disappointed with any trail you choose, but, my recommendation would be any of the following - Ice Lakes Basin, Columbine Lake, or a hike in the Weminuche Wilderness (where there are over 597 miles of trail) that suits your desired length.
There are ample recreation opportunities surrounding Silverton. It is, of course, a skiing paradise in the winter. If you - much like myself - are not a fan of sliding (or tumbling) down a mountain in the snow, however, you may find the hiking and backpacking in summer and early fall much more enjoyable.
For hiking/backpacking, I do not think you will be disappointed with any trail you choose, but, my recommendation would be any of the following - Ice Lakes Basin, Columbine Lake, or a hike in the Weminuche Wilderness (where there are over 597 miles of trail) that suits your desired length.
Both the Columbine and Ice Lakes trails are a little over eight miles out and back. The hikes are strenuous, each gaining around 3,000 feet in elevation from top to bottom, but they are incredibly worth the climb - just take your time and bring plenty of food and water. Throughout the hikes, you will be rewarded with breathtaking views, and once you reach either trail's end, you will find yourself at a lake that is the most glorious shade of blue.
After a long day - or multiple days - adventure, if you find yourself back in Silverton, stop by the Golden Block brewery for a drink and a pizza. Then, drive back south through Durango before turning west to the next destination.
Mancos & Dolores
Driving west out of Durango on Highway 160, you will find yourself in the charming town of Mancos, Colorado. I do not recommend driving through Mancos without first stopping for a coffee or brunch at either ABC Bakery or Fahrenheit Coffee (the best brew in southwestern Colorado, if you ask me).
After enjoying Mancos, you can either drive eight miles south to Mesa Verde National Park or about twenty minutes further west to the town of Dolores. If you choose to drive south, you will notice that the landscape of Mesa Verde is vastly different from that of the mountainous terrain to the north.
After enjoying Mancos, you can either drive eight miles south to Mesa Verde National Park or about twenty minutes further west to the town of Dolores. If you choose to drive south, you will notice that the landscape of Mesa Verde is vastly different from that of the mountainous terrain to the north.
Before leaving Dolores, be sure to grab a beer and homemade pizza at the local brewery (If you are starting to notice a theme, yes, I think pizza and good drink are a great way to end a day of hiking).
Lizard Head Wilderness
On your way north, you will pass through the Lizard Head Wilderness - named for the spire-like tower of rock that makes up Lizard Head peak. This relatively small wilderness area has thirty-seven miles of trail, wandering in and out of dense conifer forests and lovely wildflower meadows. There are also several peaks to climb, including two of Colorado's most famous fourteeners - Mount Wilson and Wilson Peak.
As the lofty crests of Vermillion and Sheep mountain come into view from the highway, you will know you have reached the edges of the Lizard Head. Stop here and take in the view while you plan your next excursion. If you are not up for a summit, there are a multitude of other highly rewarding hikes.
Just off the main road lie the trailheads for Cross Mountain and Lizard Head - both perfect for a day hike. If you have a medium to high clearance vehicle, however, I recommend leaving the main thoroughfare and taking Dunton Road #207 up to Kilpacker or Navajo Lake trailhead. The drive alone is spectacular. Once the road levels off and the forest opens up to rolling meadows, you may want to take your time and wander along the road for a while.
Telluride
Just a short drive from the Lizard Head Wilderness lies another mountain town nestled at the base of the San Juans, the town of Telluride. In case you are curious about the origins of the name, there are two theories. First, the town was named after a chemical element found in gold and silver - tellurium. Second (and far more interesting), the name was derived from a well-known aphorism said to those fortune seekers who were off to find gold and silver in the rugged San Juan mountains, to-hell-you-ride.
Whatever you choose to believe about the origin, Telluride is a lovely town to spend the day in. There are hikes that leave right from town and take you into the mountains, or you can relax and meander the streets; perhaps, even, take the free Gondola up to a lookout and take in the views from there.
Telluride offers numerous dining options, as well - everything from upscale to casual. Though I have not eaten there myself, I hear Floradora boasts the best burger around. My husband and I mainly drive up around brunch, so we always grab bagels at Baked in Telluride. If that is more your style, you cannot go wrong with a delicious bagel and lox.
If you are in this area in the summer months, Telluride hosts weekly festivals. Most events revolve around music, such as the famous Bluegrass Festival. However, the town also celebrates a yearly mushroom festival, various film festivals, and a plethora of other entertaining events.
(Something to keep in mind - many of the Telluride events for 2020 may either be canceled or virtual due to the virus. Visit telluride.com for updates if you are planning a visit this year)
Mt. Sneffels
A short drive north of Telluride brings you to the Mt. Sneffels wilderness. If you are chuckling about the name, you won’t after I tell you it is the Nordic word for snowfield (pretty cool, right?). Accurately named, these jagged peaks and sheer, rocky slopes are nearly always blanketed in snow.
Due to its ruggedness, this vast wilderness only offers fifteen miles of constructed trail. However, those fifteen miles provide some of the most dramatic views in the Rockies. Blue Lakes trail is a personal favorite. The well-worn path meanders through spruce and fir forest before opening up at the first Blue Lake, where the water has the same striking color as the trails I mentioned in Silverton.
From the lake, you can climb further up the trail along a ridge that winds through open, highland meadows teeming with wildflowers. As you climb, the view looking down at the lake, into the glacial basin is spectacular. Of course, you can stop at any point along the trail, but I do recommend hiking on to the middle and upper lakes as well. They command even greater views of the rugged peaks, including the 14,150 foot Mt. Sneffels.
Onward
When you leave Mt. Sneffels, you can continue to Ouray and complete your loop by taking the infamous Million Dollar Highway back to Silverton, or you can drive farther north.
This route will take you through the Uncompahgre National Forest and into the town of Montrose, where you can then visit Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park along with a host of other (north)Western Slope wonders. Many of these places I have not managed to explore yet as this southwestern corner alone has been keeping me quite busy. Perhaps this means there will later be a part two.
Whatever path you choose, may you marvel over the jagged peaks, wildflower meadows, and ancient canyons of this lesser-known part of the Centennial State.
To-hell-you-ride.